SUITS


no, not the TV series but suits for men.

Back when my son was about to go to the prom, I thought of having his suit made in Bergamo and did. That time it cost ***  I know,  quite expensive but in my condition, going to Kamuning was hardly enticing. So why Bergamo? Because it had a shop in Rustan’s then. And later, still in Shangrila on the second floor. When we had it altered after my son grew thinner, they didn’t charge us. Whew.

Years later, son had to attend a party. This time he bought a coat in ZARA. Cheaper certainly than an entire set from Bergamo.

Then son began to work and these past months the need for a suit reared its head. Son has a cousin who’s a Kamuning guru so he told son where to have it made for a song – vis-a-vis B’s latest price – P20k plus!  Son went to Gally and was happy with his suit. But he also decided to try the recommendation of the telahan and was recommend to Pons (?) who used to be with RM Manlapat. I think the latter made a better-fitting suit. Cheaper too.

So there… Kamuning is the place to go – moms with sons (SUI) who’ll be going to their JS prom this coming school year –  think about it.

Now for getting married – go to Ascot Chang in Rustan’s Shang – 4th floor I think. So spiffy.  From the material to the sewing – undoubtedly really special and a standout. I think a set costs P90k at least? Or is it more like P100k plus? They do have a few sets you can buy off the rack at a much lower price. Note that the suits are made in HK.

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Some tips from my nephew. I hope he doesn’t unearth this post:

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The tailor will be a guy named Gali. The fabric shop will call him and he will come over to measure you and get your requirements.

 

My unsolicited tips re fabric:

  1. Better to get cloth which are directly from the bolts. Sometimes they may offer you cloth from booklets but you’ll never know where they’re eventually from.
  2. Try to get wool or wool with cashmere. 90-120 count should be good. The higher numbers are more exquisite but do not wear so well.
  3. Please don’t get a black suit. I know it’s tempting as a first (?) suit but really this is for funerals.
  4. I would suggest black with a light grey pinstripe or a dark dark blue or dark gray.
  5. The lining will just be rayon or polyester. You can choose a contrasting color if you wanna be fancy.

 

And re the cutting – you really have to spell these out so you get what you want.

  1. Ask for a working cuff with working buttons. 4 buttons is the norm. They usually try to do this cheaply by not having a working cuff and no buttonholes but hey, you wanna convey CLASS J
  2. Get a slanted pocket on both sides with flaps and I usually ask for a small ticket pocket on top of the right pocket.
  3. For the lapel you have two choices: notched (standard) and peak (ala Harvey Specter of the TV series Suits). The fashion now is a higher lapel, ie close to your collarbone. The 80s style lapel has this very low and isn’t very flattering – you look like you have a low chest. Most of my suits have notched lapels but recently I’ve tried peak lapels for flair. Oo na, form follows function.
  4. More important than the style is that you INSIST on having a stitched suit – no glue, which is the cheaper way of doing it. This will eventually bubble and have ripples – really ugly. A hand stitched suit conveys class.
  5. Re the suit length, the fashion now among they young is to have it really short. As in almost to the belt. Sorry but when you’re meeting senior execs you look exactly like that – young and immature. Try to have it at least to your wrist. The old school thinking is that it will reach the joint between your fingers and palm but yes this may look a bit long.
  6. You can also ask for a working buttoniere hole on the lapel but honestly I don’t think this is really necessary.
  7. When Gali made my suits before he was a bit heavy on the shoulder padding – popular in the 90s pero a  more natural curve is better now. Totally agree.
  8. For the pants I still prefer to just have one pleat. Yes flat fronts are again popular but when you’re sitting this is really uncomfortable (or you then have to ask for more space down there).
  9. Re cuff or no cuff it’s a personal preference. I prefer no cuff though as sometimes nasisipa ko yung cuff and you end up tearing it! Also stuff gets caught inside it like crumbs, lint, etc. Oo na in spite of my clothing wisdom baboy pa rin ako.
  10. You can also ask that the back of the uncuffed end be slightly longer at the back than in front. This way the back of your shoe is covered but wala masyadong crease in front. Gets?
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29 thoughts on “SUITS

  1. Hi, just wanted to give you an update as off to Kamuning we were today as my husband needed new set of office clothes. Jun of Rosditt recommended a new tailor, Leo who will sew husband’s new gusot mayaman, office pants & long-sleeve polos. His sewing charge is 500/item (polo & pants). Accdg to Jun, he finds Mang Pons ‘ulyanin’ na, which was also our observation & with Jerry naman, his expertise is really suits & subcontracts sewing of pants & polo to somebody else, which explains reason my husband was not happy with pants (yung uso ngayon na sobrang low-waisted, more for yuppies ang style) & polo (‘maiksi’, so it easily gets untucked). I was also telling husband, maybe they refer tailors they can also get commission from? me just thinking……

    • Hi Sui,
      Thank you so much for your inputs. But I am torn if should I get Mang Pons or Jerry, based on your comments. This will be my first time to have my specials someone’s suit tailored to his cut and taste… since we are also getting married very very soon :). We are also sponsoring 6 more suits for the occasion. I have heard of Mang Delfin as well?

  2. By the way, haven’t heard of JE&Co., that’s a tailor? To Carlo, you may find the details/contact numbers in my April 14, 2014 response above. 🙂

  3. Hi Kevin, my husband hasn’t tried RM Manlapat although we know it has been a long-time tailor here in Manila. You may try either Pons (who used to work for RM Manlapat) or Jerry, who sometimes has a tendency to forget instructions. A friend of ours from Canada had some long-sleeved shirts to be worn with suits made with him & was disgusted to see them made as polo jacket-styled shirts. Well, he says he used to work abroad for a long time, okay naman sana but just reiterate your exact instructions. With Pons naman, we noticed that his shop is disorganized in the sense that he forgets when he has to finish the suit or if you have one made with him again, he has to get your body measurements again as he misplaces the one he already took. Well, I guess as with most Filipino supplier or tailor for that matter, best to give them at least 2 weeks prior to the event so you have enough lead time should there be last-minute alterations – just my two cents.

  4. Pumunta ako ky mang pons..matanda pala sila na mananahi..sui pwede pahingi ng address doon sa bago nyong pinapagawaan

  5. Hi I saw your posts regardng your new suki from Kamuning…..I need a suti for my cousin’s wedding…Can I have his contact number?

  6. We used to be long-time sukis of Emiliano-Ericci – their store is located in the ‘bukana’ of Kamuning. But realized that their telas were way too expensive, even their house tailor would charge a sum for suits. We discovered this store across Pon’s shop, the name is Rosditt Merchandise (if Pon’s shop is to your right, just look straight across & you will not miss it). Look for Josie or Jun, they’re very accomodating & they will tell you the telas for suits bought by branded tailors (like FL). Good luck! Tell me your experience after you get there 🙂

    • Hi again, Sui. Guess what? Forwarded your comment to my son and that’s where he buys his tela also – Rosditt. But he has a question. What’s FL daw? I’m clueless. Checked online, couldn’t find anything that seems to stand for FL

  7. My son had soiree once already the past schoolyear and thankfully (for me, at least, haha!), he seemed disinterested with it. Sana tumagal na ganun! 😉 OUr new suki is Jerry, address is #37A K4th St., Kamuning (from Edsa, turn left at a Brahma bldg in Kamuning, go straight ahead then you can turn left at K4th ), contact # is 7095503. My hubby already had a suit made with Jerry, costs around 4k (shhh, don’t tell him I told you). Tell me how it pans out, so far he’s okay naman.

    • What a consolation if after the soiree, nothing develops yet, no? But a friend was so frustrated that his daughter’s school didn’t have soirees until later because getting a date for the prom was a problem. That too him was a real issue.

  8. Wow! This is comprehensive. Ang mahal na pala suits ngayon. Sayang, gipit na kami sa time, gusto ko pa namang pagpatahi si D nga mga pants. Parang okay yung sa Kamuning.

  9. Hi Sui. That’s right, Pons. I keep forgetting his name, must have asked son for it a million times. Yes, please, may I have the address of your new suki? So you have another year to be free of prom thoughts… no soirees yet?

  10. Hahaha, just thinking about proms for my son gives me the jitters! I’ll still have about 2 more years bago mangyari yan kaya akin muna siya 🙂 But honestly, I and my husband have been Kamuning sukis for the longest time. Sobrang mahal to go to branded tailors. I think I know who you mean with the tailor in Kamuning who used to be with RM Manlapat, that’s Mang Pons whose shop is in the middle in the inside parking lot. We had a few of my husband’s office polos and a suit made with him.Okay naman but when we went back, he lost the measurements kaya sukat uli. Now we have a good suki who also makes his suits and whose shop is located just off Kamuning, he also subcontracts for other branded tailors (shhhh…) 🙂 Tell me if you need his address, will refer you to him.

    • Good day, Sui,

      First of all, I’m glad I found your post. I never realized how much has to be considered in looking for a good custom tailor here in the Philippines. So I did some research when a friend recommended R.M. Manlapat to me.

      Since, after reading around, it became clear that good fabric is hard to come by unless your tailor has the license to carry them, I was hoping you could fill me in regarding who to approach among the three: RM Manlapat, Mang Pons or that tailor you mentioned off Kamuning who subcontracts for other branded tailors.

      I hope you see this message!

      Thank you.

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